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  • Writer's pictureKim Casey

Fact: There are Toxic Chemicals in Clothing Imported from China 



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Over the past few decades, China has become one of the world's largest exporters of clothing and textiles. Many major clothing retailers and brands source a significant portion of their inventory from Chinese manufacturers. However, there is growing concern that toxic chemicals are being used extensively in the production of these garments and are not being properly regulated. 


The main chemicals of concern include phthalates, formaldehyde, lead, and azo dyes among others. These chemicals are added to clothing and textiles for a variety of reasons - as plasticizers, wrinkle-free agents, colorants and more. However, they have been linked to health issues like hormonal disruption, developmental problems, cancer, reproductive harm and organ toxicity. Exposure can occur through direct skin contact as well as evaporation into the air and getting absorbed or inhaled. The effects seem most pronounced in vulnerable populations like pregnant women, infants and children.


Types of Toxic Chemicals


Chineses lady working in a clothing factory

Many concerning chemicals have been detected in clothing imported from China. The main chemicals of concern include:


Formaldehyde - This is used for wrinkle-resistance in clothing. It is a known human carcinogen and can cause allergic reactions.


Heavy metals like lead, cadmium, and mercury - These are used in dyes and pigments and can accumulate in the body over time, leading to neurological damage. 


Phthalates- These chemicals are added to plastics to make them flexible and are found in clothing containing polyvinyl chloride (PVC). Phthalates are linked to hormone disruption and developmental issues.


Alkylphenol ethoxylates (APEOs) - These chemicals are used in detergents and as dyeing auxiliaries. They break down into hormone-disrupting compounds.


AZO dyes - These synthetic dyes can release cancer-causing aromatic amines. Low-cost clothing frequently contains AZO dyes.


Perfluorinated chemicals (PFCs) - These chemicals provide stain and water resistance but have been linked to cancer, liver damage, thyroid disease, and other health issues.


This toxic chemical cocktail raises major concerns about the safety of our clothing supply. Consumers deserve transparency and high safety standards for the clothes they wear each day.


How the Chemicals End Up in Clothes 



Shipping containers stacked up in a shipping yard.

Toxic chemicals make their way into our clothing through various points in the manufacturing and distribution process. 


The main ways these harmful substances contaminate our clothes are:


Manufacturing & Textile Production


Many toxic chemicals are utilized in the actual production of the fabrics and textiles. This includes the growing of raw materials like cotton, as well as the synthetic production of materials like polyester. 


Pesticides, bleach, formaldehyde, and other dangerous chemicals are employed to help turn raw materials into finished fabrics. These substances help provide desired properties like bug and wrinkle resistance, but linger in the clothing.


Additional chemical additives and dyes are used in turning fabrics into finished garments. These can contain heavy metals like lead and also contribute to the chemical residue.


Contamination During Shipping/Storage


Even after production, chemicals can be introduced during the transport and storage process.


Items are fumigated and disinfected during shipping in large containers from the factories. The aim is to prevent pests and bugs, but these strong chemicals get absorbed into the materials. 


Warehouses where clothing awaits distribution can also introduce chemical contamination from disinfectants and pesticides. Even the plastic packaging contains phthalates and other substances that transfer to the garments.


So in summary, toxic chemicals make their way into our clothes through production methods, materials, dyes, and contamination during shipping and storage in the supply chain. Consumers end up with chemical-laced clothing as a result.


Health Effects


Exposure to toxic chemicals in clothing can lead to concerning health effects, especially for vulnerable populations like children. Three major categories of health effects have been identified:


Cancer- Many chemicals used in textile manufacturing and finishing are known or suspected carcinogens. Formaldehyde used for wrinkle-free finishes is a known human carcinogen that can cause nasopharyngeal cancer. Certain dyes contain aromatic amines that are absorbed through the skin and associated with bladder cancer. 


Endocrine Disruption- Chemicals like phthalates, organotins, and nonylphenol ethoxylates (NPEs) are endocrine disruptors that interfere with the body's hormone systems. This can impact reproduction, thyroid function, and neurological development. Developing babies and children are most vulnerable. 


Developmental Issues- Studies link exposure to certain textile chemicals with developmental problems in children. For example, a 2015 study found children of mothers with higher levels of organophosphate flame retardants had lower IQs and poorer motor skills. Other research indicates toxic chemicals can negatively impact behavior.


More research is still needed on the various health effects of prolonged exposure to the complex chemical cocktails in clothing. But existing studies raise enough concerns that many advocate for stronger regulations and safer alternatives to protect consumers.


Regulations and Standards


Chinese working in a distribution center.

China's regulations on toxic chemicals in clothing lag far behind those in the US and EU. While the US and EU have banned many toxic chemicals from clothing through regulations like REACH in the EU, China has only restricted a handful. 


China does have some standards that limit certain chemicals like formaldehyde in clothing, but they are much more lax compared to other major markets. The limits allowed are often several times higher than what would be permitted in the US or Europe.


Enforcement of regulations in China is also notoriously poor. Factories frequently flout restrictions, and third-party testing has uncovered high levels of restricted chemicals in clothes being manufactured. Without proper audits and inspections, there are few incentives for factories to comply with chemical standards and guidelines. 


The US and EU have much more rigorous programs for testing imported clothing and footwear. But with the complex supply chains in the apparel industry, oversights still occur. Toxic chemicals inevitably slip through and make their way unwittingly onto store shelves in Western countries.


Stronger harmonization of chemical regulations and enforcement between China, the US and EU could help resolve this issue. But the apparel industry's supply chains present major challenges for implementing consistent global standards. Real progress will require a coordinated international effort between major clothing producers like China and major consumer markets like the US and Europe.


Major Brands and Retailers Affected


A number of major fashion brands and retailers have been affected by the discovery of toxic chemicals in their clothing imported from China and other countries. 


Recent testing by organizations such as Greenpeace has found high levels of chemicals like phthalates and nonylphenol in clothing from popular fast fashion brands like Zara, H&M, and Uniqlo. In 2011, Greenpeace tested clothing from big brands and found high levels of phthalates and cancer-causing amines in products from Calvin Klein, Levi’s, Zara, and others.


More recently in 2020, testing commissioned by the Changing Markets Foundation found high levels of phthalates in clothing from H&M, Zara, Levi’s, Tommy Hilfiger, Ralph Lauren, Lacoste, and others. The phthalate DEHP was detected in 100% of H&M items tested.


Major retailers and brands have had to recall products found to contain toxic chemicals. In 2009, H&M recalled hooded jackets for children after they tested positive for high levels of the flame retardant PBDE. Gap pulled certain sundresses in 2018 after finding they contained the pesticide glyphosate in the fabric.


Well-known brands continue working to reduce and eliminate toxic chemicals from their supply chains. However, frequent testing reveals issues still persist, highlighting the complexity of global fashion supply chains. Consumers seeking chemical-free clothing may need to look to brands that emphasize safer and more sustainable materials.


Solutions


Department store with racks of retail clothing.

There are several potential solutions to reducing the levels of toxic chemicals in clothing manufactured in China. 


Stricter regulations and enforcement: The Chinese government could implement stricter regulations limiting the amount of toxic chemicals allowed in clothing manufacturing. Regular audits and enforcement of these regulations at textile mills and factories could help improve compliance. Fines for violations could also incentivize factories to limit their use of toxic chemicals.


Supply chain auditing: Brands and retailers that source clothing from China should conduct regular audits of their supply chain. This can identify factories that are using concerning levels of toxic chemicals and encourage corrective action. Strict vendor compliance guidelines on chemical use can also be implemented.


Consumer awareness/demand: Educating consumers about this issue can drive the market away from brands that produce toxic clothing. Campaigns showing the health impacts could change purchasing behavior. Consumers can demand clothing free from concerning chemicals and shop from responsible brands. Their collective choices and voices can pressure the industry to transform its manufacturing practices.


Focusing on these types of solutions can significantly reduce toxic chemical levels in clothing produced in China. With multiple stakeholders taking action, from government to industry and consumers, there is potential for substantial improvement over time. Achieving a non-toxic apparel supply chain should be the ultimate goal.


Recommendations for Consumers 


With toxic chemicals present in much of our imported fast fashion, what can everyday consumers do? Here are some tips:


Look for organic, sustainable brands that use natural, non-toxic dyes and fabrics. Doing your research on a company's supply chain and chemical use can help you find responsible brands. Consider buying used and vintage clothing as another option.


Wash new clothing before wearing it. Give your new clothes a wash before wearing them to help remove some of the chemical residue. Use fragrance-free detergent. 


Get involved and make your voice heard. Sign petitions, write letters, and call clothing companies and elected officials to demand change. Look into groups advocating and organizing around the issue. Shop with your dollars and support responsible companies.


Spread awareness. Educate your community about this issue and the simple steps they can take to reduce exposure. Together we can push for change.


Donate and recycle responsibly. Be mindful of where your used clothes end up. Look for organizations that will safely destroy or repurpose unwearable garments so they don't end up in landfills or developing countries.


Buy used clothing to slow the flow of new apparel. Used clothing has had contaminants removed from previous use. This is especially important for pregnant women and young children. Buying used maternity clothes and infant clothing reduces exposure and it sends a message to brands that would ultimately see a dip in demand. 


By becoming informed consumers and demanding change, we can push the fashion industry to eliminate these dangerous chemicals for the health of people and the planet. Small everyday choices and actions can add up to make a big difference.


The Future Outlook


There is hope for improvement when it comes to reducing toxic chemicals in clothing. Several trends point to a cleaner future:


Consumer awareness and demand for safer products is rising. Documentaries like Stink! and increased media coverage have educated more shoppers about the issue. Surveys indicate over 80% of consumers want clothing without hazardous chemicals. As buyers call for change with their wallets, brands will have to listen.


Major retailers are starting to take action, albeit slowly. Fast fashion leaders H&M and Zara launched eco-friendly lines to address customer concerns. Outdoor companies like Patagonia and REI have long restricted certain chemicals. And campaigns like Greenpeace's Detox push big apparel companies to eliminate the worst offenders. While piecemeal, it's a start.


New safer alternatives are being developed. Green chemists are formulating non-toxic dyes, water repellents, and flame retardants to replace traditional versions. Although still in early stages, these innovations could provide viable options. If costs become competitive, widespread adoption may follow.


Governments are tightening regulations and enforcement. The EU has implemented REACH standards to regulate chemicals more strictly. Vietnam and other producer countries are starting to enforce bans. Such top-down pressures will compel companies to change.


While complete elimination of all concerning chemicals seems unlikely soon, incremental progress appears probable. With enough public will and pressure from NGOs, the apparel industry can continue to shift toward safer materials and transparency. While the road ahead remains long, a future with non-toxic clothing may yet be within reach.


Conclusion 


The problem of toxic chemicals in clothing is widespread and concerning, affecting major brands and retailers along with consumers' health. As we've seen, these chemicals like formaldehyde, heavy metals, and phthalates can lead to skin irritation, hormonal disruption, and even cancer. 


While regulations and standards exist in certain countries, enforcement is often lacking. Companies are not yet doing enough to eliminate these substances that can be absorbed through skin or inhaled as clothes are worn. Consumers also need to educate themselves and demand change.


The solution requires collective action across the supply chain. Brands must set and adhere to higher chemical restrictions, auditing suppliers more stringently. Manufacturers need to implement safer alternatives that are widely available. Policymakers should enact and enforce stronger regulations globally. Consumers should vote with their dollars to support responsible companies.


Together, we can eliminate the toxic substances that have no place in our clothing or our bodies. The health of workers, customers, and the environment depends on it. Let this serve as a call to action for all of us to create positive change in the fashion industry.

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